La Tour D’Argent

Our last night in Paris was a Sunday, when many of the restaurants are closed. I did some web searching, and checked with my guide books and decided to make reservations at La Tour D’Argent. I had read numerus reviews that called this restaurant one of the best in Paris, and one that called it an over-priced tourist trap. The description of this 1582 landmark, the second oldest restaurant in Paris, was what won me over. La Tour D’Argent is in the Latin Quarter. The dining room is on the 5th floor, with floor to ceiling windows that overlook the back of Notre Dame Cathederal. The view takes your breath away when you are seated at your table. Here’s what Frommers Guide had to say:
Best View: A penthouse restaurant, La Tour d’Argent,15-17 quai de la Tournelle, 5e (tel. 01-43-54-23-31), is owned by ex-playboy Claude Terrail, who pays part of Notre-Dame’s electric bill to illuminate the cathedral at night for his diners’ pleasure. Dining here is a theatrical event.

The amazing view

Theatrical event, that’s for me! La Tour D’Argent is known for it’s duck and it’s massive wine list. They have 800,000 bottles of wine in their cellar and the wine list is bigger than the family bible. Not knowing where to begin, we allowed our sommelier to give us suggestions to go with our dining choices. Of course, we started with Champagne. We had the house La Tour D’Argent Blanc de Blanc. Just Lovely.

Tom peruses the wine list

This restaurant is known for it’s duck, prepared 6 different ways, and the Foie Gras Des Trois Empereurs. We were ready to let our taste buds experience the pleasures known to others for over 400 years. Our server was great help in deciding which preparation to choose.

To our last night

We started with the traditional amuse bouch. There was a tasty cheese puff triangle, a tart, and a lobster and sweet cream cup. Tom told me the latter was a tomato parfait type thing. Much to my surprise, and shock, it was lobster, something I’ve been known to have allergic reactions to. Luckily, I did not have any problem this time, but I spent four very anxious hours, waiting to see if anything would happen.

The Amuse Bouche

For the first course, I choose Quenelles De Brochet “Andre Terrails” The translation was Pike Dumplings in a Mornay sauce. I was expecting a fish of some kind, but was delighted with a light baked egg-white dumpling, in a creamy cheese sauce. I’m sure there was pike in there in some where, but I didn’t see it. It was one of those dishes that you would have licked the plate clean if no one was looking. I enjoyed another glass of the Blanc de Blanc with it.

Quenelles de brochet “Andrei Terrils”

Tom had the world famous Foie Gras Des Trois Empereurs. This dish goes back to 1867, It was made to celebrate the gathering of three world leaders. (The following is from the La Tour D’Argent web site) The guests were Alexander II, Czar of All the Russias, his son and namesake the Tsarevitch, the King of Prussia, Wilhelm I and the Prince of Bismarck. Rarely has a restaurant seen so prestigious an assembly brought together around a single table, not for a state summit, but simply for their pleasure. (The menu served to the three men was a royal event in it’s own right. ) On leaving the restaurant, Czar Alexander II complained that he had not had the opportunity to taste foie gras, a typically French delicacy. Claudius Burdel, a loyal servant of gastronomy, explained: “Sire, it is not the custom of French gastronomy to serve foie gras in June. If you can wait until October, you will certainly not regret it.” Faithful to his word, Burdel sent a terrine of foie gras to each of the three emperors in the autumn. This specially prepared foie gras was later known as the “Foie Gras des Trois Empereurs”

Toie Gras des Trois Empereurs

Tom certainly did not regret it, either. The foie gras is mixed with black truffles and scooped out of a silver pot with spoon, similar to dipping ice cream. It is paired with two jellies, one made with sauternes, and the other with white Burgandy. Accompanied by a pop-over, Tom was in heaven. He ate every last bite, enjoying a glass of Verre De Chateau Cantegril 2002, a sauternes, with it.

Most of the duck preparations come prepared for two. Tom and I both decided on the Caneton Olivier Dassault, Duckling with Burgandy wine sauce. This dish can be ordered by a single person, but it sounded so good, we both ordered it. The duckling is served in two stages. The white meat, in a Burgandy wine sauce, accompanied by the liver of the duck, sauteed and sandwiched in a puff pastry. We shared a bottle of Gevrey Chambertin Combe Aux Moines 1993, an incredible bottle of Burgandy. The second half of the duckling, the dark meat, came with crispy fried skin and a more tangy sauce. I can’t tell you which part was better, they were both excellent.

Caneton “Oliver Dassault” the breast meat

The crispy dark meat

In the mid 1800’s, Grand Master Frederic was the man who originated the duck dinners at the restaurant. He also started to number the ducks and gave out certificates to commemorate your duck. Tom and I had duck # 1050194. We would like to thank #1050193 for his wonderful service.

The Formage cart was a thing of beauty. We each tried four different cheeses, paired with two different wines. We tried a Vin Jaune Du Jura, which means “Yellow Wine” and a Porto Vintage, a classic vintage port. French wine and French cheese… heaven.

Formages

We ended the evening with the Souffle D’Automne Et Son Tokaji. This is a souffle for two that takes 30 minutes to prepare, so we ordered it with the cheese course. This light and melt in your mouth souffle was so good. It was served with a glass of Son Tokaji, or Royal Tokaji. This wine is very sweet with tastes of honey and fruit, but it had a perfect finish to go with the souffle.

Souffle’ de Autome et son Takaji Royal

This was truly, a once in a lifetime meal to savor while on vacation in the most romantic city on earth. I am so glad that we dined here and I was able to add it to my list of amazing experiences that I have been fortunate enough to have. If you get the chance to visit this historic eatery, save your pennies and go and enjoy all that comes with the amazing view.

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